Pipe Freeze PRO can be overlapped during installation. This is a fundamental advantage of self-regulating heat cable over cheap, constant wattage cable found in hardware stores is that it can be overlapped without risk of shorting out or catching fire. So yes, overlap away!
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Our cables operate at between 40ºF to 90ºF so they will not melt or damage any surface or material they come into contact with. Except chocolate. Our cables will thoroughly melt chocolate.
Heat Tape Pro has the most comprehensive installation system that works on almost any kind of roof type.
For information about installing Heat Tape Pro on a Natural Slate Roof, Click here.
For information about installing Heat Tape Pro on a Synthetic late Roof, Click here.
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Measuring is not difficult and you can make measurements without going up on your roof or using a ladder if you err on the side of overestimating the distances. Here’s Radiant Solutions Guide to Measuring for Heat Tape, which gives a detailed overview of measuring and some tips and resources, if you think you need it.
Once you have your measurements, you can use our Heat Tape Calculator to help you determine the length of Heat Tape Pro you need, the number of Heat Tape Clips you’ll need, and misc. product considerations.
Heat Tape Pro & Piper Freeze Pro can both overlap and/or touch itself in your installation.
It’s fine to overlap your heat tape pro, or have it touching itself in your install. The cable only itself heats up to less than 100ºF at most. This is plenty of warmth to stop ice dams from forming, but isn’t that much warmer than the temperature of your body. Sometimes it won’t even feel that warm to the touch.
This is different than a lot of heat tape that can be purchased at stores: contestant wattage cable can get much hotter and can even be dangerous if you overlap them. Not our cable, however.
Pipe Freeze Pro can touch itself, overlap with itself, or be wrapped around itself on the pipe. It won’t get too hot because not only is it designed to have a maximum output temperature that is less than 100ºF, it is self-regulating –so it’s output adjusts to the ambient temperature near the cable.
The amount of heat cable needed for pipe freeze prevention is determined by a couple of simple factors including: Length of pipe, diameter of pipe, distance to power supply and number of valves.
Most of the time, we do not recommend a spiral cable application because it’s simply not necessary. It requires 3x the cable to do the same job.
Therefore, simply use a straight, single run of cable affixed to the bottom of the pipe (think 6 o’clock position) using the provided fiberglass installation tape. Next, add 1 foot of cable for every valve because you will be wrapping the valve with cable. For pipes less than 1″ in diameter, a single cable run is sufficient. For larger pipes, two cable runs are recommended. Keep in mind that plastic pipes are less thermally conductive so you may choose to use two cable runs on larger plastic pipes to be safe. Finally, if your outlet isn’t close to the pipe you are treating, factor in enough heat cable to reach your outlet (Pipe Freeze PRO does come with a 36″ power cord).
Finally, you must install insulation on your pipe and heat cable assembly in order for the system to operate effectively. See instructions for further details.
Because our heat cable can be overlapped, there is no specific way to wrap valves. A simple loop of cable around the body of the valve will be enough. A couple things to remember. First, try to keep the cable in contact with the valve so the heat transfers effectively from the cable to the valve. Next, do your best to insulate the valve to protect it from the cold. This often means getting a little creative with the same insulation you use for the pipe. You can use a scissors to cut the insulation into one or more shapes and then secure those shapes to the valve with tape (duct tape works well). Speaking of tape, remember to use our fiberglass installation tape to secure the cable to the pipe.
